Embracing Simplicity: Why I Started Metalworking for My Pearls
Just a short while ago, the days still felt chilly—but now it’s warmed up completely.
I’m currently in Osaka, where the temperature during the day is around 24°C and it stays about 18°C at night.
Speaking of Osaka, the Expo is now underway.
Before and during its opening, the media was filled with Expo coverage, but things have calmed down recently.
So far, no one around me (myself included) has actually gone.
Still, the feedback from those who have attended, according to radio and television reports, seems mostly positive—they say it was worth the visit.
Over the past few months, I’ve been devoting a lot of time to metalworking.
I start with a 2mm-thick silver rod, cut it into 5cm lengths, and shape it by hammering and bending with pliers.
Then comes the polishing process, which takes place over six stages and takes about 10 hours to complete.
I hear experienced artisans can do it much faster.
Finally, I add a 0.6mm silver pin to hold a pearl, heat the piece with a gas torch, and solder it.
This soldering technique—known as “brazing”—is something I’ve recently become quite confident in.
Whenever I mention my metalworking to other people in the pearl industry, they’re almost always surprised.
But once I explain my reasoning, they usually understand right away.
As I’ve mentioned in many product descriptions, I began metalworking to make use of leftover pearls from my daily work.
When I buy loose pearls, I start by selecting the best pairs for earrings.
Then, I use the remaining pearls to create necklaces.
Some pearls, though, are difficult to pair—even if they are stunningly beautiful with deep blue overtones and strong luster.
It feels wasteful to use such pearls for necklaces.
In the past, I would purchase ready-made brooch or ring settings and attach the pearl to those.
These commercial settings are beautifully finished—but I rarely find one that truly matches my personal taste.
It’s similar to how I feel about store-bought bento boxes.
Yes, they’re convenient and usually tasty.
And yes, they’re affordably priced and ready to eat.
But personally, I rarely buy prepared foods like bento, side dishes, or salads.
Somehow, I’ve come to prefer eating food that I cook myself.
Not that my cooking is anything special—it’s all fairly simple meals.
Still, even if store-bought food is “objectively” delicious, it often feels like something is missing.
But when I eat food I made myself, I find it truly satisfying.
Maybe it’s because I understand the process behind it.
My mother once said to me, “You’ve become such a difficult person. I’d happily eat anything someone else made for me—it’s just easier.”
After cooking for our family for over 50 years, she probably wants a break.
This analogy may be a bit of a stretch, but it also applies to pearl settings.
Even if commercially made findings are beautiful, I feel a strong desire to make my own.
There’s a city in Japan called Kofu that’s well-known for its jewelry setting industry.
Some suppliers even drive five hours to Kobe twice a month to show pearl dealers their stock.
They often bring an impressive variety of gemstone settings—many decorated with diamonds.
However, I find that many of the designs look a bit outdated.
When I mentioned this to a supplier I know well, he said,
“Well, it’s the older generation—mostly people over 60—who decide what we make, so the designs tend to reflect that.”
While some try to incorporate modern styles, creating a new design is an upfront investment.
If it doesn’t sell, the company takes a loss.
With the rising cost of gold, taking such risks is even harder now.
After hearing all this, I realized I couldn’t feel excited about using findings that even their creators aren’t fond of.
Sure, diamond-studded settings are luxurious and beautiful—but they feel too formal.
I prefer to offer pearls that can be worn casually, day to day.
Pearls don’t sparkle like diamonds.
They have a soft, gentle glow—like the moon compared to the sun.
When I see pearls, they make me feel calm.
Even when I’m tired, they somehow make me feel like, “It’s okay… you’ve done enough.”
Diamonds, on the other hand, can feel overwhelming—like they demand attention.
This contrast became even clearer at a recent international jewelry show.
The diamonds and other gems dazzled under the lights.
In comparison, the pearls looked understated—almost quiet.
Even I, a pearl lover, found myself thinking, “Jewelry really means diamonds, doesn’t it?”
I keep talking about diamonds because, to be honest, I don’t know many other gemstones.
In my view, the gentle glow of pearls makes them perfect for everyday use.
And everyday pearls deserve findings that suit daily life.
I want to create jewelry that you can wear to buy vegetables, not just to a gala.
I don’t really know where the line between “accessory” and “jewelry” lies, but I do know this:
I want to sell pieces that I can confidently call jewelry.
And so, this is how I decided:
“I’m going to learn metalworking and make my own settings.”
Luckily, I found a shop that sells jewelry tools just 20 minutes away by motorcycle.
The staff there are friendly and often give me helpful advice.
There’s plenty of metalworking info on YouTube, too—but there’s so much that it’s hard to know where to start.
That’s why I’m grateful to have met a professional artisan who could guide me in person.
According to him, YouTube videos only show the best parts.
Real learning, he says, comes from doing the work yourself—again and again.
I also attended a metalworking class for a few months.
Most of the students were hobbyists, and I was amazed by how passionate the community was.
There, I learned all the basics—how to use a gas torch, how to handle the tools, and so on.
It was like attending a cooking class where they teach you how to use knives, frying pans, and pots properly.
Without those lessons, I might have ended up hammering with a knife or trying to bake a pizza in a saucepan.
I joined that class hoping to learn how to embed tiny pearls (around 2mm) into metal and secure them with prongs.
After learning the basics, I asked the teacher for guidance.
But she replied, “I can’t do that anymore—I’ve become too farsighted.”
Shortly afterward, I left the class.
What was I talking about again?
Ah, yes.
It was about how I didn’t want to use mass-produced findings for unique pearls—and decided to make my own.
I actually started metalworking about three years ago.
A customer once told me, “I prefer pendants to rings. I don’t think rings are in demand.”
So I began creating pendants.
Every day, I browsed Instagram hoping to find cool designs I could imitate.
But the pieces I liked most always seemed beyond my skill level.
There just weren’t many cool designs that looked doable for me.
What I wanted was a design with flexibility.
Something that wouldn’t clash with any outfit or occasion.
Flashy or extravagant pieces often require a specific context—fancy clothes, events, and so on.
But I like pendants that you can wear anywhere, anytime.
Maybe it’s because I don’t like being bound by restrictions.
I prefer things I can wear freely and easily.
So I began shaping 5cm silver rods into leaf-like forms for pendants.
Since my shop is called Flower Jem, leaves feel like part of the family.
And pearls and leaves are distant relatives, too—
Leaves catch the rain, which flows through the mountains and into the sea, nourishing the Akoya oysters that produce beautiful pearls.
In fact, the pearl industry occasionally plants trees near pearl farms as part of environmental efforts.
This stone monument was erected by the pearl industry group “Hitotsubu no Shinju” (One Pearl) when it was planted on an island in Kyushu, a pearl producing region with about 40 pearl farms. The following is written on the stone monument.
A Single Pearl
On a leaf of broad green tree,
A droplet—one Akoya pearl—
Rides the flow down to the sea,
Where it nurtures pearls to be.
My leaf pendants are simple, slightly unique, and relatively easy to make.
They’re custom-fit to each special pearl, like a made-to-order setting.
Well, that’s how I see it, anyway.
Just last night, I uploaded the second pendant in my “Hold” series to Etsy, even though I was fighting off sleep.
To my surprise, it sold the very next day.
I’d assumed it would take at least six months to sell.
The pendant had become a favorite of mine, so parting with it feels bittersweet.
Though the design is simple, I went through many trials to reach this result.
And this time, I plated the silver in rhodium, which boosts its shine and durability.
Now it sparkles like white gold—but at a more affordable price.
Until now, I’ve focused obsessively on crafting All-knot pearl necklaces and bracelets.
But from here on, my original settings will become a key feature of Flower Jem.
Of course, I’ll continue making All-knot pieces.
A classic pearl necklace is timeless and beautiful.
But for everyday wear, I believe pairing pearls with colorful threads is also lovely.
Gold and white gold clasps certainly add luxury, and people might say, “Wow, that’s amazing.”
But with colored thread, the reaction might be more like, “Oh, how cute!”
It’s like comparing a fancy luxury car with a quirky, charming one.
Not everything needs to be impressive—sometimes, something lovable is better.
I hope that nuance came through in these words, even if just a little.
June is right around the corner—and June is “Pearl Month.”
As a retailer, I should probably participate in these kinds of seasonal promotions.
But the truth is, I don’t have the time right now.
Events like Christmas or Valentine’s Day don’t particularly resonate with me, either.
I prefer making jewelry for daily life, not just special occasions.
Still, I know I can’t keep ignoring these opportunities forever.
Maybe a few years down the road, I’ll find the energy to do a big Pearl Month campaign.
Well, I’d better wrap it up here before I write a whole book.
To those receiving this by email—thank you.
This may be the first post you’re reading from me.
I expect some unsubscriptions, of course.
But I’ll continue writing about pearls and everything around them, from every angle I can.
If you stay with me, it would mean the world.
Until next time,
Pearl Bless You
Flower Jem
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